Sparta – Kalamata via Taygetos, the most beautiful mountainous route in the Peloponnese

The most beautiful mountainous route in the Peloponnese starts from Sparta and leads to Kalamata (or vice versa), but not through the modern highway, instead following the old provincial road of Taygetos. The Pentadaktylos of the Byzantines and the Taleton of the ancient Greeks, reaching an altitude of 2,407 meters, is the twelfth highest mountain in Greece. It is also referred to as the “Trulos tou Moria” because it is the highest mountain in the Peloponnese. Additionally, its mountain range spans a length of 115 kilometers. Due to its massive volume, it extends across three regions: Arcadia, Laconia, and Messenia. Knowing the imposing Mount Taygetos There are many ways for someone to experience this imposing mountain in the southern part of the country. From beautiful villages and monasteries perched on its slopes to paths that traverse a spectacularly large portion of the mountain, canyons, and valleys. However, the easiest way for someone to witness the magnificence of nature unfolding before their eyes is to take their car and make the journey from Sparta to Kalamata via the old road that connected these two cities. A route particularly beloved by those who crossed it, filled with many memories. A few years ago, before the new highway was opened to traffic, to reach Kalamata from Sparta (or vice versa), one had to climb Mount Taygetos. Either by following the classic winding route from the tourist kiosk or through Megalopolis. The most impressive route in the Peloponnese. Certainly, the most impressive route is the one that starts from Sparta, ascends to Trypi, and the renowned Keadas, and from there, following the ribbons, begins to climb the mountain, crossing the wild gorge of Lagkadas. The altitude difference between Sparta and the tourist kiosk is almost 1,100 meters. This means that until we reach the tourist kiosk, where there is a cafe and a restaurant, we have only uphill terrain ahead of us. However, the route is adorned with breathtaking scenery. Moving along the edge of the cliff, you’ll need to enter tunnels within the rocks, climb onto “balconies” of cliffs, and traverse areas literally covered by plane trees. Our only companions are some other adventurous drivers and occasionally wild goats and wild boars, adding a touch of romance to the journey. The scenery is dreamlike throughout all seasons of the year. But if you happen to pass through during the autumn months, then a fairytale landscape in golden, orange, and red hues will enchant you! If you find a place to park, then get out and admire the beautiful view. You’ll feel an unprecedented sense of fulfillment within yourself, and a miracle will unfold on the wild slopes of Taygetos. Because no matter what humans create, no matter how many monuments are erected, and no matter how much art is praised, nature will always remain the one and only wonder of life. As we mentioned, the highest point of the journey is the tourist kiosk at an altitude of 1,300 meters. The temperature difference from the two cities is noticeable here, reaching up to 10 degrees Celsius. Delights from local vendors, taverns under the plane trees, and a breathtaking sunset. From the tourist kiosk onwards, we descend the mountain with an endless view between the mountains and the sea. Here, note that you can see (if you catch the right moment) one of the most spectacular sunsets, with the sun setting into the Messinian Gulf, painting the sky with intense shades of purple! Throughout this journey, you will also encounter local vendors selling their delights at makeshift stalls along the roadside. Local, pure products depending on the season, bearing the stamp and care of the region. As you rightly suspect (if you are younger) or as you correctly remember (if you are older), when this was the main artery of communication and transportation between the two cities, there was a bustling atmosphere with such vendors along the entire length of the route. Even today, here you will find the juiciest and tastiest cherries in spring, as well as the crispiest and most flavorful chestnuts in the fall. You can also purchase pure honey, fragrant tea, and other mountain herbs and spices. Descending from the side of Kalamata, you will find charming taverns in the small villages you pass through, which, if you’re hungry, will become your personal oasis. Under the colossal plane trees, you’ll taste local cheese, wild greens, fresh meats, and roasted piglet. I know that modern closed highways are comfortable, fast, and offer greater safety. However, none of them will offer you the magic of the natural wealth of a mountain. For this reason, the next time you want to travel from one city to another, think about it again!

Rigklia: The mountainous village of Messinia with its two rivers and a sea view

The distinctive region of Mani has gained considerable recognition in recent years, thanks to travel reports. However, this has predominantly favored its coastal areas, boosting tourism during the summer season. The more mountainous sections, therefore, continue to hold surprises for those inclined towards more thorough explorations in different seasons of the year. One such mountainous gem in Messinia is the village of Rigklia, administratively part of Western Mani and located approximately 47 kilometers from Kalamata. Easy access is provided via the provincial road connecting Kalamata to Areopoli. Expect to arrive in about 1 hour, making the area ideal for planning a delightful day trip. Rigklia is situated at an altitude of 120 meters on the southwest slopes of Mount Taygetos, with a total population of 213 residents according to the 2011 census. The use of ‘total’ population is significant, indicating that the community has preserved its traditional characteristics, still consisting of three more or less distinct settlements. Characteristic cobblestone alley of the village, nestled among traditional stone-built houses. Photo: Municipality of Western Mani. What is worth seeing if you come to Rigklia. Characterized by the mountainous side of Messinian Mani, Rigklia is situated on a beautiful plateau adorned with olive groves (and some cypresses), built on a strip of land between two rivers flowing from the neighboring Mount Mela (part of Taygetos). The landscape gains even more idyllic charm with the stunning view that the village enjoys towards the Messinian Gulf. During the summer, the two rivers tend to dry up completely, but regain water when the rains begin. Rigklia is not a medieval village but rather a creation of the later years of Ottoman rule in the Peloponnese. It is estimated that it took its current form around 1800 when the families of Gennimatas, Christeas, and Kyvaleas settled in the area. However, the initial settlement seems to be even older, as an inscription from 1737 is preserved in a house. Originally spelled as ‘Rigglia,’ the spelling was simplified in 1920. Until 1938, they were considered part of Laconia; however, since then, they have definitively belonged to the Messinian territory. Rigklia is located on a plateau in Messinian Mani, surrounded by olive groves and some cypresses. Photo: Wikipedia Creative Commons. The aforementioned arrival of the three families is likely behind the trilateral division of the community, which, as mentioned earlier, still persists to this day. Upon visiting, you will see the village articulated into Ano Rigklia, Kato Rigklia, and Eleochorio (also known as Izina). Taking a stroll through the cobblestone streets, you will encounter various fountains, traditional stone-built houses in the three settlements—some dating back to the pre-revolutionary period—and numerous Byzantine-era churches. Some of these churches are considered today as preserved monuments, serving as attractions for the village. For instance, the church of the Dormition of the Theotokos in Ano Rigklia or that of Saint George in the same area. The latter is noteworthy for its tiled roof and stands out for its bell tower as well as its wall paintings, exemplifying folk art from the second half of the 18th century. The Temple of the Transfiguration of the Saviour has been standing in the village since 1854, serving as the focal point for the annual festival. Photo: Wikipedia Creative Commons. In Kato Rigklia, on the other hand, stands the Transfiguration of the Saviour, constructed in 1854. Today, it serves as the focal point for a grand local festival held on August 6. Here, you will also find a distinctive stone-built well, covered by an arch, reflecting an old everyday life. Finally, concerning attractions, it’s worth venturing a bit outside the village to see the Church of Agia Paraskevi: built inside a cave on a rugged slope, it offers unparalleled views of the Messinian Gulf. The arched-roof well in Kato Rigklia. Photo: Wikipedia Creative Commons. Accommodation – Coffee – Food “Despite their small size, Rigklia has not overlooked the development of tourism in Messinian Mani. Therefore, if you’re not just passing through for a day trip but wish to stay, you’ll find various accommodation options—both within the village and in the surrounding countryside. For example, you can check out the ‘Riglia Residence,’ operating as a hotel in a luxurious, stone-built villa in the center of the settlement. As for coffee and food, on the other hand, you will need a car to travel to the coastal front. Within less than 2 kilometers, the picturesque fishing village of Agios Nikolaos is a well-developed destination and traditionally serves as a ‘taverna’ for both Rigklia and the broader mountainous area.”